Diagrammatic Transformation of Architectural Space

Harnessing the sun's heat

These diagrams, scaled at 1:120, explore the idea of heating through the act of 'cutting.' By applying my spatial generator to the existing house, I was able to detach and shift exterior rooms or walls to different locations, in hope of allowing more natural light into the building. The existing state house is constructed in a way that blocks of the sun's heat in several areas of the house. This means that  some rooms will be colder than others, and as there is no insulation in the existing plan, the occupants will need to rely on other sources of artificial heating. My aim, through these diagrams, was to rearrange aspects of the house to efficiently use the sun's heat - the more natural heat that enters the house, the more safer and comfortable the environment will be to live in.

Cutting the front section off the existing house
This first diagram has been cut so that the existing 'sun room' is separated from the house. I tried placing this detached room on top of the house. I liked the idea of adding another level to the house, however it would be more suitable and functional if this level were larger. Placing the 'sun room' to the left side of the house allowed more natural light into the north facing elevation but could potentially block off any morning sun entering the east facing elevation. The final concept was only a slight adjustment but is possibly the most efficient method in order to harness the sun's energy. I shifted the 'sun room' to the west side of the north facing elevation. The existing 'kitchen' does not receive a great deal of heat because the 'sun room' is in a impractical position.

Cutting through the centre of the existing house

This diagram has been cut directly through the centre of the house so that the sun will shine into the gap. However, this cut still might not receive much sunlight as the openings are both east and west facing. I decided to improve this idea by stacking one side above the other and tilting them so they are slightly more north facing. Creating another level gives the occupants more space to move around  in. As the house it up higher, it is closer to the sun, therefore receiving more natural light, allowing for more heat into the space. 

Cutting through the centre of the existing house

This diagram, similar to above, has been cut through the centre, but in a different direction. The angle of this cut probably wouldn't allow too much sun light into the building. Nevertheless, warm and comfortable material or cladding could be inserted to these walls, acting as insulation rather than a way of capturing the sun's heat. The following concept depicts the south facing elevation lifted on top of the north facing elevation. This layout looks very geometrical and box-like; its vertical elements allow more garden space - but is this necessary? 

 

Cutting a section out of the existing house

A large section of the house in this diagram is cut out, leaving the floor, the south facing wall and ceiling by itself.  This area thereby becomes a hollow and empty living space - but what can it be used for? I placed the remaining part of the house above, acting as another level. As aforementioned in the previous diagrams, adding an extra level is a suitable and sustainable way for efficiently using the space - smaller carbon footprint. The focus on vertical elements allows a greater amount of sunlight and heat into the dwelling, which is my primary concern for this assignment.

Cutting the top half off the existing house

The roof, ceiling and a portion of the wall space has been completely removed. This allows the potentiality of different materials in this space - glass, insulating cladding? Glass would be ideal in terms of allowing heat from the sun inside. However, large amounts of glass can become a privacy issue, and shutting blinds or curtains on a regular basis will block out the sun - a problem that I am trying to avoid. Tinted windows would be another option, but I think that altogether, the house needs more wall space - skylights are a possible way of allowing heat into a room without the privacy issue.

Diagrams selected for further development

Precedents

Splitting (1974)

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1992.5067

Matta-Clark operated on a two-story home in New Jersey slated for demolition, effectively splitting it down the middle. The light from the incision invaded the interior and united the rooms with a swath of brilliance. The artist photographed his work and created a collage of prints, the unconventional disposition of which re-creates the disorienting experience of the unprecedented destruction. Using abandoned buildings for his medium and wielding a chainsaw as his instrument, he cut into the structures, creating unexpected apertures and incisions.

Sun Orientation Research

Orientation of the sun

http://www.smarterhomes.org.nz/design/orientation/

I will orientate the house to take advantage of warm sun and cooling breezes, thereby achieving greater comfort at lower cost.

In general, ideal orientation means:
- You get the right amount of sun - plenty in winter and in cooler climates, not too much in summer and in warmer climates.

- You're protected from strong/cold winds but can take advantage of breezes to cool the home when it is too warm.

Positioning for sun
To make the most of the sun for warmth and natural light, the house's main living areas should face north. The main glazing in the house, such as windows, skylights and glass doors, should also face north. Anywhere between 20ºW - 30ºE of true north is ideal. I'll want less glazing facing west because of the potential for glare and overheating from late afternoon sun. This is an increasing problem in New Zealand houses. East-facing glazing captures morning sun and can be sized according to preference for light, heat control and ventilation in summer. South-facing windows receive minimal sun and should be relatively small to avoid heat loss but allow for light and ventilation.

The exact amounts and proportions of glazing will vary depending on other considerations such as climate, how well insulated the house is and how energy-efficient the glazing is. It is also worth considering the type of glazing alongside the placing and number of windows – for example, if I want larger south-facing windows to capture the view, I might want to have these double glazed, or I might consider tinted glass for west-facing windows. The exact amount of heat the house gets from the sun will depend on the season, time of day, weather, local climate and rate of air pollution. Heat is greatest when the sun is at a high angle relative to the horizon (i.e. it's higher at noon than at dawn or dusk). Heat is also greater in summer than winter.

Even if the house doesn't face due north, windows can be positioned to get north sun.

Buildings, trees and terrain that block the sun
To make the most of the sun, the house should ideally be positioned as far as possible from neighbouring buildings, terrain or vegetation that might block north sun:

A site that slopes north will get more sun than a south-facing slope. A south-facing slope will be more shady, which may be useful in summer but restrict the ability to make the most of the sun's warmth in winter. A site that runs north-south should get sun throughout most of the day. Neighbouring homes won't generally block the sun during the middle of the day, but they may provide shade in early mornings or late afternoons if they're close to the boundary. A site that runs east-west is more likely to have its north sun blocked by neighbouring houses. However, this depends on how wide the site is and how close neighbouring homes are to the boundary. If a north-facing site is too narrow, i'll have limited ability to place living areas along a large north wall.  Make the most of morning or afternoon sun in a number of rooms. Note that in winter, objects cast shadows two to three times their height, so if possible the house should be sited well back from anything that might block the sun. Building along the southern boundary is a good idea if the local council permits it.

Neighbouring buildings can block winter sun. If possible, build the house a sufficient distance away from buildings and other obstructions. Note that in winter obstructions will cast shadows two or three times' their height. Even if the site isn't ideal for catching the sun (for example because it slopes south), it may be possible to maximise the sun's warmth using north-facing clerestory windows or other glazing.

Clerestory window to bring north sun into a south-facing home.

Shade
If I orient the house to make the most of the sun, I can use shading and ventilation to keep the home cool in summer. Because the sun travels higher in the sky in summer and lower in winter, I can use features such as overhanging eaves and vegetation to ensure I get don't get too much sun in summer. I can also position the home to get shade from neighbouring homes, terrain or trees when the sun is at its hottest, such as late afternoons in summer. 

The sun travels higher in the sky in summer.

Letting in breezes, keeping out wind
From southerly gales to northwesterly blasts, wind is an issue in many parts of New Zealand. Ideally, I'll orient the house in a way that avoids the strongest and coldest winds - but still allows the ability to harness mild breezes to keep the occupants cool in summer. Vegetation can be used to filter harsh winds, and landscape and building structure can be used to deflect cooling breezes into the interior but exclude harsh winds. Other features such as well-designed windows will also help.

When thinking about orienting the house to catch breezes and avoid wind, consider:
- Whether there is a prevailing wind direction (vegetation patterns can sometimes indicate this, or   ask the neighbours; coastal breezes are usually from an onshore direction)

- Whether the wind changes with season - in terms of direction and strength

- Whether the wind strength or direction changes at different times of day - for example, in hilly areas cool breezes often flow down valleys in late evening and early morning
- How exposed the site is to wind - winds are stronger near coastal areas and ridgetops

- Whether the strength is affected by nearby buildings, hills and vegetation - buildings and valleys can funnel winds (which makes them stronger), and hills and vegetation can provide shelter.

As well as sun and breezes, I will also need to consider orientation to:
- Take advantage of views

- Avoid noise

- Achieve privacy

- Achieve the appearance I want for the house

- Ensure there is clear street access

- Beware of west-facing views. If I orient the house west, it will get the full glare of late afternoon sun and it may also be exposed to strong winds.

Striking a balance

Achieving the ideal orientation is about striking a balance between sun, breeze and these other factors. If I compromise on orientation in order to take advantage of views, I may still be able to make the home energy-efficient by using features such as good insulation and well-placed, well-sized windows.Gordon Matta-Clark was best known for his building cuts and fragment displacements. His work is a key influence in terms of my spatial generator. After viewing his work, I was able to see how he cuts architecture and how this might help or persuade my decisions in the way that I cut the state house.

Diagrammatic Transformation of Architectural Space

Insulation

By incorporating my spatial generator of 'cutting', I will use cellulose insulation, as it is made up of cuts from recycled paper. This method is a functional heating system for a home and is a sustainable way of reusing materials.

Insulation Research

Why is insulation important?

http://www.sealinsulation.co.uk/benefits.html

Insulating the house was my first priority as lack of insulation in this state house  can become a health risk. The main benefits to bear in mind are as follows;

Sensible investment of your money and you will reduce your heating costs
Around 50% of the heat that you put into your home is wasted through the wall area. Cavity wall insulation are the most effective energy efficiency measures you can install. You will need your central heating on less as your home will retain more heat and for longer – it will warm up faster and cool down more slowly.

Your home will be warmer and more comfortable.
By installing cavity wall insulation, the home will not only be warmer during the winter period but it will be cooler in the summer.

You will have a more energy efficient home
By installing cavity wall insulation, the home will be more energy efficient, and with the introduction of home information packs (hips), the increased energy efficiency of the home will be attractive to buyers.

You will be helping to protect the environment
These carbon emissions are generated amongst other things by the fossil fuels that we burn to heat, light and power our homes. Reducing the fuel you use by installing cavity wall insulation will help reduce these carbon emissions and reduce your carbon footprint.

Types of Insulation

http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/types-insulation

Type	Insulation Materials	Where Applicable	Installation Method(s)	Advantages
Blanket: batts and rolls	•Fiberglass •Mineral (rock or slag) wool •Plastic fibers •Natural fibers	•Unfinished walls, including foundation walls •Floors and ceilings	Fitted between studs, joists, and beams.	Do-it-yourself. Suited for standard stud and joist spacing that is relatively free from obstructions. Relatively inexpensive.
Concrete block insulation and insulating concrete blocks	Foam board, to be placed on outside of wall (usually new construction) or inside of wall (existing homes): Some manufacturers incorporate foam beads or air into the concrete mix to increase R-values	•Unfinished walls, including foundation walls, for new construction or major renovations •Walls (insulating concrete blocks)	Require specialized skills Insulating concrete blocks are sometimes stacked without mortar (dry-stacked) and surface bonded.	Insulating cores increases wall R-value. Insulating outside of concrete block wall places mass inside conditioned space, which can moderate indoor temperatures. Autoclaved aerated concrete and autoclaved cellular concrete masonry units have 10 times the insulating value of conventional concrete.
Foam board or rigid foam	•Polystyrene •Polyisocyanurate •Polyurethane	•Unfinished walls, including foundation walls •Floors and ceilings •Unvented low-slope roofs	Interior applications: must be covered with 1/2-inch gypsum board or other building-code approved material for fire safety. Exterior applications: must be covered with weatherproof facing.	High insulating value for relatively little thickness. Can block thermal short circuits when installed continuously over frames or joists.
Insulating concrete forms (ICFs)	•Foam boards or foam blocks	•Unfinished walls, including foundation walls for new construction	Installed as part of the building structure.	Insulation is literally built into the home's walls, creating high thermal resistance.
Loose-fill and blown-in	•Cellulose •Fiberglass •Mineral (rock or slag) wool	•Enclosed existing wall or open new wall cavities •Unfinished attic floors •Other hard-to-reach places	Blown into place using special equipment, sometimes poured in.	Good for adding insulation to existing finished areas, irregularly shaped areas, and around obstructions.
Reflective system	•Foil-faced kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard	•Unfinished walls, ceilings, and floors	Foils, films, or papers fitted between wood-frame studs, joists, rafters, and beams.	Do-it-yourself. Suitable for framing at standard spacing. Bubble-form suitable if framing is irregular or if obstructions are present. Most effective at preventing downward heat flow, effectiveness depends on spacing.
Rigid fibrous or fiber insulation	•Fiberglass •Mineral (rock or slag) wool	•Ducts in unconditioned spaces •Other places requiring insulation that can withstand high temperatures	HVAC contractors fabricate the insulation into ducts either at their shops or at the job sites.	Can withstand high temperatures.
Sprayed foam and foamed-in-place	•Cementitious •Phenolic •Polyisocyanurate •Polyurethane	•Enclosed existing wall •Open new wall cavities •Unfinished attic floors	Applied using small spray containers or in larger quantities as a pressure sprayed (foamed-in-place) product.	Good for adding insulation to existing finished areas, irregularly shaped areas, and around obstructions.
Structural insulated panels (SIPs)	•Foam board or liquid foam insulation core •Straw core insulation	•Unfinished walls, ceilings, floors, and roofs for new construction	Construction workers fit SIPs together to form walls and roof of a house.	SIP-built houses provide superior and uniform insulation compared to more traditional construction methods; they also take less time to build.

I selected two ideal insulation methods from the table in terms of sustainability. One of which is  cellulose insulation and the other is in fact a product, GreenStuf insulation, created by Autex.

GreenStuf Insulation

http://autexindustries.com/nz/insulation

Thermally bonded with no chemical additives

Autex insulation products are made from 100% polyester fibre, bonded using heat instead of traditional chemical binders. Polyester is naturally resistant to fire, moisture, vermin, insects, mould and bacteria, eliminating the need for any chemical additives. This polyester insulation materials are non-toxic, non-irritating, non-allergenic and safe for anyone coming into contact with them. And that means no nasty itching and scratching and no ongoing health concerns for building occupiers.

Eco-friendly manufacture and recycling practices

All GreenStuf products contain a minimum of 45% recycled polyester fibre made from used and recycled PET bottle flake. GreenStuf insulation products are made from only polyester fibres so they remain fully recyclable at the end of their lives. GreenStuf products are manufactured under a Zero Waste policy and using a low-energy production process, putting them among the most environmentally-friendly insulation solutions on the market.

Made to last a lifetime

GreenStuf insulation products are exceptionally durable. They won’t slump, settle or deteriorate over time and they are backed by Autex’s 50-year Durability Warranty.

Safe and friendly solutions for new and existing homes

Autex has a great range of thermal and acoustic solutions for walls, ceilings and underfloors that will keep a home warm and dry in winter, cool in summer and energy-efficient all year round.

Cellulose Insulation

http://greenliving.lovetoknow.com/Recycled_Paper_Insulation

There are many forms of insulation available, however some new green options, including recycled paper insulation, are providing an exciting option for people who are looking for an energy efficient house. Recycled paper insulation is an attractive environmentally friendly option for people looking to build or renovate a home.

What is Recycled Paper Insulation?

Recycled paper insulation is a special form of insulation that is made from recycled paper. This is also known as cellulose insulation. The paper is processed and treated with a fire retardant to make it suitable and safe to use. Paper is naturally flammable and this means that if it is not treated it could prove a fire hazard, therefore being treated with a fire retardant is an important part of the process.

Recycled paper insulation offers many benefits and these include

- Environmentally friendly: this form of insulation is made from paper that would otherwise end up in.

- Insulation: recycled paper or cellulose insulation is a good form of insulation. It offers insulation against heat and cold, and is also a good form of sound insulation.

- Fire retardant: because paper insulation is treated with a fire retardant, it helps to reduce the risk of fire in the home.

- Loose fill and batts: recycled paper insulation is available in loose fill and batts, making it suitable for different uses.

Other Forms of Natural Insulation

There are other forms of natural insulation available. These include insulating products that are made from wool. Wool has good insulation properties and can be a good alternative to paper or cellulose insulation. Insulation made from recycled paper is a great option for people interested in green living. It keeps waste out of landfills, provides a good insulation product and will help to save energy which in turn saves money. This powerful combination makes this form of insulation difficult to ignore.

Chosen insulation method

In my previous post, I produced a diagram portraying wall cavities and exposing the insulation and the structure of the wall. I wanted to further develop this by heating the existing state house through the act of 'cutting'. I thought that cutting up recycled paper is the most sustainable and functional way to insulate a home. For this reason, I have decided to use cellulose insulation in the walls cavities of the existing state house.

Diagrammatic Transformation of Architectural Space

Insulation

My spatial diagrams portray:

- 'Cuts' and 'divisions' of the floor, wall and roof.

- A contrast between the wall cavity in a State house and the wall cavity in a modified sustainable version of the house.

- Removed walls in places, showing the laminated beams (either exposed or hidden) to support the ceiling.

- Extension, replacements, and relocation of walls to create more space and make the most of efficiently using the sun.

- Sustainable insulation and materials used.

Original state housing wall cavity: Gib board, wall timber framing (as shown above), exterior cladding.

Insulated Floor Cross Section: Carpet (or floor boards could be placed directly above the timber framing),  particle board,  polystyrene (insulation), floor timber framing (as shown above).

Insulated Wall Cross Section: Gib board, wall timber framing (as shown above), 'Green Stuff' (insulation), building paper, exterior cladding.

Insulated Ceiling Cross Section: Exposed laminated beam (used for support), gib board, ceiling timber framing (as shown above), 'Green Stuff' (insulation).

 

Precedents

Gordon Matta-Clark is widely considered one of the most influential artists working in the 1970s. He was a key contributor to the activity and growth of the New York art world in SoHo from the late 1960s until his untimely death in 1978. His practice introduced new and radical modes of physically exploring and subverting urban architecture, and some of his most well-known projects involved laboriously cutting holes into floors of abandoned buildings or, as with Splitting (1974), slicing a suburban villa in two.

Bingo (1974)
http://places.designobserver.com/feature/the-lost-public-art-of-gordon-matta-clark/1160/

He had spent the Summer searching through the Bronx and Brooklyn for houses to be demolished or that were abandoned and then he would cut out pieces of the walls, floors, doors, windows. He was thrilled with the layers of linoleum and the architectural sections that he could present 3D. The floor cuts grew into wall cuts and the wall cuts grew into whole sides of buildings such as the Artpark piece. 

The title Bingo derived from what Matta-Clark believed was a typical American church function, which he felt was probably common in Niagara Falls, a typical small American town populated with houses like the one he cut. The gridded game card and the process of filling the squares with numbers in the course of play found its obverse as Matta-Clark removed elements from the grid he had inscribed on the side of the building.

Bingo works with a typical suburban American house. Having only ten days before the scheduled demolition, Matta-Clark created a work based on the division of one side of the house into nine equal sections, measuring 2 by 3 metres. These segments were removed one by one, apart from the centre section which was left in place.

In my diagrammatic transformation of architectural space, I want to explore similar methods of cutting into the floor, walls and ceiling. In relation to the lack of heating in state houses, I will insert insulation into these cavities to allow for a more warmer, dryer and comfortable environment.

Space Planning: Existing Site

Diagrammatic analysis via colour coding of existing State House

What I noticed about these diagrams is that each space type is reserved to separate areas of the house. For example outside / inside spaces: the inside areas connected to outside through windows and doors are generally large, open and located on the east side of the house while the inside areas are smaller and west side based. This could be because the occupants may want to make the most out of the morning sun.  

servant / served spaces
i.e. task oriented and leisure oriented spaces



public / private spaces
i.e. where visitors are encouraged or discouraged to go to.



outside / inside spaces
i.e. when have we gotten 'inside' and how connected are we to outside (such as by views/ windows)?



enclosing / opened out spaces
i.e. cosy & shady versus spacious with lots of sun



wet / dry spaces
i.e. bathrooms and kitchens versus lounges and bedrooms



static / fluid spaces
i.e. where things stay in the same place most of the time versus where they might be moved regularly



noisy / quiet spaces